By Malene Birger is undoubtedly one of the premier and most well-recognized brands of Copenhagen Week. Christina Exteen’s takeover as Creative Director in 2014, the brand has achieved great commercial success — largely due to its high end clientele of Insta stars and socialites. Take a look through some of this season’s runway designs, and there’s no need to question why.
Bohemian goth is possibly the best way to describe the Spring 2018 collection, which presents many looks that feature flowy, airy pieces combined with dark patent leather. While there is a considerable lack of continuity throughout the line, which jumps from buttoned up office looks to casual chic dresses and dark leather accents, the disconnect seems to be an intentional way to combine some of the biggest trends forecasted for the upcoming season all into one collection — asymmetrical shirt dresses, wide legged trousers, off shoulder button ups and the color green, just to name a few.
Many elements of this season are similar to the collection that debuted at Copenhagen Fall 2017, but with an updated color palette and no fur. This seems to be a new, edgier direction that By Malene Birger has been taking for the past two seasons, but the cleaner aesthetic of Spring 2017 and earlier collections is certainly missed. While the edgier looks that incorporate patent leather seem to be the focal point of the collection — including the off shoulder trench coat that kicked off the show — the casual and more buttoned up looks naturally steal the show. If the ultimate goal is to align with what’s popular and profitable, I’d say that By Malene Birger has a win with this collection.
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